Good time everyone. There have been few repairs. I started the ravchik, I had to do everything on the move and it’s harder to look for spare parts at new prices.
1) fuel system.
In the spring, lately, I was worried about starting a car, it is necessary to turn it longer. Since I changed the nozzles not so long ago and, based on the signs of a malfunction, I decided to throw in the pump. Ahh ... and the thermistor in the tank was covered with a course, the fuel level light did not work. For a long time I was looking for a thermistor with a resistance of 1 kOhm in the city, everywhere in radio products they start from 10. Found 2 kOhm. 45 rubles. Installed and the light worked. By replacing the pump, the problem partially went away, it got better, but sometimes you still have to turn it. I'll try to remove the wash force and check the valve clearances.
2) cooling system.
For a long time antifreeze left the radiator, the upper tank was snotty. I removed the radiator and tried to remove the tank and re-glue it, but this was not successful, the result was a replacement. The upper tank led and I could not put it back. I bought a sat radiator 6500r. and get the radiator with fans up. well, why didn’t the Japanese do it right away =((
After 2 days, the upper hose burst at the point of attachment to the engine. I bought a connector, a 10 cm silicone pipe. And 2 clamps. 400 r. A quick temporary repair has been made and we're moving on. But the pipe must be changed, it crumbles straight, I will either look for an analogue or collect it from silicone. It still does not give rest that the cap on the radiator is tightly twisted and it seems to me as if it is relieving pressure too late. That is, the neck on the radiator is somehow a little different, I measured it with a gauge, there are differences back and forth in a millimeter.
3) drove on the suspension.
It began with the fact that it seemed to me that the rear springs were tired. The car sank. During the last trip along the highway, there was a vibration in the steering wheel and some jerks jerking during acceleration. As if the rear gear is pushing. He pushed before, but it was not always noticeable. I thought that I should look at the internal grenades. I stopped by for diagnostics at a computer stand, they looked around and said everything was normal, well, maybe there is a backlash in the internal front grenade, and then only when I said there is vibration during acceleration.
Plus balanced all the wheels. There was some imbalance. 1700r. for diagnostics and balancing.
Then I decided myself already in the garage by parsing to diagnose and immediately repair. I bought 4 sachets of vmp lubricant for internal tripods and 3 more sachets of restoring for bearings. 1500 r. He threw off the front drives, removed the anthers of the internal grenades, removed all the grease and filled it with new grease in the proportion of 1 part restoring grease and 2 parts grease for tripoids. At the same time, I discovered that I do not have a left anther protective from the abs ring - it is sold only complete with hub bearing seals.
I ordered tenacity rear gear mounts. Large 1500 rub. 2 small silents 260 rubles each And in the course of 2 silent blocks on the trailing rear arms (one of them no longer had a pulse), also tenacity for 320 rubles. And 2 silent transverse levers tiguar for 370 rubles. (BUT according to the catalogs for our body they are only with rods, we open the catalog of the next body (2000-2005 onwards) and there these silents go separately). Plus breakup bushings with eccentrics for 300 rubles. (since the nut and bolt are intact and the old bushings have become friends with the silent blocks).
Just bushings and 2 silents from the next body.
All excess is mercilessly cut out
Pressed subframe mounting bushings. By the way, here I got a little worn out because I pressed the bolts on the wrong side and then I tried to press them out a little, I was afraid to damage the silentblocks.
The only thing I had to suffer with was pressing out the bolts (And the important point is that you don’t need to press them in until the end, literally 2 mm to the end, leave it to get close to them in the future for pressing out)
Trailing arm silent
I would like to note that my pillows were not yet completely dead, but some kind of very soft, and began to peel off from the clip
I also note the condition of the bolts for more than 20 years old car. No oxides or rye
The subframe bolt had to be lowered
I also stuffed the rear internal grenades with grease as well as the front ones. And I tried to change the glasses in places. Since the development in the glass itself goes only on one side.
I was also surprised by the rear springs, they are sagging from the word, here you are, and the vaunted reinforced OBK. Once again, disappointment. Found springs from Noah CR42. 2000 r. For a couple. The height of our rear springs is 27 cm. Noach has 32 cm. I sawed half a coil so that the butt was not too bulging. Now my butt is about 1.5 cm higher than the front. This is provided that there are 2 cm spacers in front.
Here was a reinforced spring 4 years ago, and in the photo below what is left of it. And it pisses me off that these springs will climb around.
Just a little bit pissed
All rods are original, replaced the anthers and stuffed them with new grease. Anthers came from the old steering tips.
It was also not without incidents. I managed to zabobrit right rear abs sensor. All attempts to buy a contract were unsuccessful, no one wanted to remove the sensor from the hub (like buy it as an assembly and separate it yourself.) I looked at the analogue on emex from 1700 rubles. And then I came across a record that they are stuffing from Cherry Tigo. As a result, I order an analogue of the Chinese Cherry, the Russian startvolt vsabs2703- and the price is 300 rubles. Not expensive for trying the experiment.
Very similar but the new one needs to be slightly sharpened the landing diameter. A little more within 1mm.
The new one is a bit longer which is a plus.
Installation is not complicated with a small flat screwdriver, we release the contacts from the chips. We need exactly the Toyota chip. From Cherry, the chip does not fit. We release both wires from the fasteners and transplant all fasteners to a new wire. We crimp the contacts, insert them into the chip, and now, after 40 minutes, the wire in place, the error disappeared.))) victory)))
Ready already with fasteners from the old
4) the brakes also fell under the distribution.
The rear pads were in my car when I bought it. Now their time has come. Remarkably, the pad closer to the front wears out faster. So you can just swap them around. But I decided to let the new ones be.
Washed everything. Lubricated with ceramic grease and some moments with copper grease from vmp
There was a small wear on the disks and I decided to grind them a little at home, cleaned them with a brush iii…
Turning disks on Japanese equipment))))) then Mark helped me out. Jack the wheel on D. Speeds of almost 20 km / h take the skin and forward.
Already finished discs. I also wanted to paint the outside but even already tired.
I changed the oil in the rear gearbox when I put the torso. Kicks was filled with 75w90 gl5. There is a lot of controversy about what exactly to fill in. I drained the old one a little puffed up, it's straight black, as if with fine powder. Since at home I had only the remnants of old oils. Filled in half manol with the prefix LS and the same kiks. The viscosity is the same. And surprisingly, the kicks have become softer, they are almost not felt. I decided to continue the experiment and filled in LS 75w90 totachi. And even all the same, it seemed to me =(((kicks haven’t really gone anywhere, even taking into account the replacement of pillows.
This is the oil drained from the rear gear for 2 years.
Then I changed the oil in the razdatka there is only 0.7 liters. To be honest, I still have the question of what to fill in Torsen. Everywhere they write differently. It doesn't look like LSD. But again, there is a certain friction there, unlike a conventional differential. The guys from Audi pour oil with the prefix LS into their torsos. Long story short, we'll see what happens next.
collector stud. Which I changed again showed off. I bought a repair stud and cut the thread without removing the manifold. The hairpin in the photo is the same, only 12 * 1.75 by 10 * 1.25. My mistake was that I screwed a finely threaded stud into an aluminum head and it was simply pulled back))
This one is a little long. But it does its job.
summary of all manipulations.
Didn't get rid of the shocks. On the track, when you release the gas and a sharp set at a certain speed, a kick occurs. But having driven along the Baikal tract in different modes, the car drives clearly and confidently. Holds the road tried 160 rides straight cool, does not stagger, no chatter, the steering wheel can be easily held with one hand. I put the arrow like on a passenger car without tension. I will continue to observe, I found a small backlash in the cardan cross in front, but everyone says that it’s not critical to ride further.
Good luck with the repairs, bye everyone. Do not run your war horses so that they do not let you down at the right time.
Mileage: 205096 mi. (330000 km.)
Category: do it yourself